Transformation from chipkey-system to ignition without immobilizer
by Marco Ooms, Mijdrecht (NL)

In case your immobilizer malfunctions beyond repair, I believe there are three things you can do:
  1. throw away your Elyseo and buy a new one
  2. replace the CDI (that's where the immobilizer is built in)
  3. transform your Ely into a version without immobilizer

Option-1 is the easiest, but most expensive possibility. If you elect to pick this option, please, feel free to dump your scoot in my front yard. :-)

Option-2 is relatively easy as well. A new CDI will cost about EUR 199,10 from Easyparts. This option's advantage is, that you will still have a scooter including immobilizer. Disadvantage, of course, is that the immobilizer can break down again, which tends to happen quite often with Elyseos and Speedfights. Not quite sure how difficult it is to program the chip key into the new CDI, but according to the manual, it should be a piece of cake.
Another problem with this system is, that not the CDI, but the system's antenna may malfunction (or both). At Easyparts, and antenna will cost EUR 48,17).

Option-3 is by far the most difficult option, but als the most challenging and using used parts even the cheapest one. However, be aware that thieves can start your engine without the chip key (even if they then have to replace the steering lock and the ignition key switch unit).

In applying option-3, you may either pick a stock ignition, or a race ignition with so-called inner rotor (thus in fact de-restricting the Elyseo). Such race ignition will cost EUR 219,00 at Euroscooters not including a coil (EUR 49,95) for the scoot's lighting. I have no experience with this set-up.

So, I went for option-3 using the stock ignition. Below, I report what I did to get things done. For hours, I've been looking for good instructions, but came up empty. That's why I considered it about time to have this job documented decently.


  • A full dose of courage, time and desire to start this off. Me? I had never worked on my scoot before, and certainly never tried to do some electronics engineering.
  • A new CDI (can be a no-name brand, suitable for Peugeot and Kymco. Cost me EUR 17,70 while a real Peugeot CDI will cost EUR 32,00).
  • Ignition with coil and fitting flywheel, suitable for Peugeot:
    1. 'general Honda imitation' ignition set will cost EUR 49,95 at Scootparts
    2. not sure what a flywheel will cost. The real stuff from Peugeot is probably extremely expensive. In that case you better pick Option-2, I guess.
    I managed to buy a used ignition and flywheel from an old Peugeot Buxy for EUR 20. You'll find them sometimes, because kids often replace their stock items by race items.
  • Tools and small items:
    • a plug fitting into the CDI
    • some tape
    • solder plugs or other materials to connect wires
    • a flywheel extractor (EUR 6)
    • a piston blocker (EUR 5) (handy, but not required)
    • spark plug tool
    • multimeter (handy, but not required)

Step 1:
Remove the bodywork from your scooter: lower spoiler, front fairing, footrests, black side fact everything around the main wiring tree, they key switch and the engine. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder.

Step 2:
Remove the exhaust, the flywheel lid and the white vent attached to the flywheel. Now, you'll see the flywheel and the so-called pick-up (the black plastic part to the right of the flywheel).

Step 3:
Remove the flywheel.
In order to do this, you need to remove the bolt from the crank shaft (in the center of the flywheel). This can only be done by fixating the crank shaft, first.

  • The best way to block the piston is by means of a piston blocker (duh!) which is plugged into the spark plug's hole.
  • I managed to fixate the crank shaft by plugging a screw driver into the flywheel (but be careful and don't hit the coils in the ignition behind the wheel).
Next, you remove the flywheel. You'll see that the flywheel only fits onto the crank shaft in one particular way. Don't break or lose the metal clip on the shaft.

Step 4:
Remove the ignition.
First, pull the plug off the ignition. This plug has yellow, white and yellow/blue wires and can be seen on this picture:

Now, remove the pick-up (2 screws) and the ignition (2 screws). The stock ignition looks like this:

This ignition doesn't have a so-called ignition coil. Obviously, the stock CDI pulls sufficient current from this 8-coil ignition in order to charge the Ht-coil which triggers the spark plug to spark. The replacement CDI doesn't have that capability and therefore needs an ignition with a separate ingnition coil.

Step 5:
Install the new ignition and pick-up.
The black coil in this picture is the ignition coil. From this set springs an additional wire, black and red, which is connected to the ignition coil.

Step 6:
Install the flywheel.
I ran out of luck here: at first, I had simply re-installed my old flywheel, which functioned quite well. However, while riding the scoot, the high beam hardly functioned. This was - in my case - caused by the difference in diameter between the old ignition (88mm) and the new one (83mm). As a result, the coils were located further away from the magnets in the flywheel, thus generating less current through the white wire (battery) and the yellow wire (main lights).

My solution to this was to buy a second hand ignition including matching flywheel from a Peugeot Buxy. The stock flywheel had 'Mitsuba GF-10' on its part, while the Buxy's flywheel says 'Mitsuba GF-4'.

Step 7:
Install the new CDI. The old one looked like this:

Sure, you can remove the old CDI, but you don't need to. It's at the front right under the frame.

On the Elyseo's left side, at about the same height as the original CDI (on the right), you'll find an empty plastic placeholder into which the new CDI will exactly fit. Can't be a coincidence, can it? I assume that Peugeot uses the same holder for all types of scooters.

The picture above shows the new CDI, while the picture below shows the holder in which the CDI will fit, next to the yellow relais.

Step 8:
Complete the wiring to the key switch: a white/black wire from the CDI (a scheme will be provided later on in this report) and a green one for ground (like all green wires on a Peugeot). These wires are necessary to switch off the engine using the key switch. The picture shows the connected wires.

Such set-up wasn't required in the old situation, because the CDI was switched off automatically when the current disappeared. In the new situation, the CDI doesn't carry current, so this set-up became necessary.

Step 9:
Connect the wires to the plug which is clipped onto the CDI. Make sure, in case you're soldering, that you don't touch the CDI with the plug! From experience, I'm afraid I can tell that the wires get hot and melt, destroying the CDI in the process.
These wires are to be connected using this plug:

  • red/black: from the ignition coil and supplies current to the Ht-coil so the plug can spark
  • white/black: leads to the key switch and is needed to be able to switch the scooter's engine off using the key.
  • green: ground
  • yellow/black: charges the Ht-coil
  • yellow/blue: comes from the pick-up and passes a signal to the CDI, which in turn passes a signal to the Ht-coil as to say: "Now, do your thing". The pick-up gets this signal from the sharp edge on outside of the flywheel.
Don't forget to attach the plug firmly onto the CDI after installing the wires.

The wiring diagram:

...and a picture of the installed CDI plug.

Step 10:
Connect the yellow and white wires from the ignition to the wire tree, of course exactly the same way as they came off when removing the old ignition.

Step 11:
It's time for a little test, now: turn the key switch to ON, with the cap on the spark plug, hold the plug against the cylinder (for instance where the exhaust is usually attached), start the engine (by pushing the kick start down manually) and see if the plug sparks.

  • If not: bad luck, but don't panic! Just check everything step-by-step and try again.
  • If it does: HURRAY! You may proceed to Step-12

Step 12:
Re-install the spark plug, push the cap firmly onto it, start the engine, and if it runs, you are ready to re-install all other parts. Make sure no wire dangles loose, and certainly not against the exhaust. After all, it gets hot, and little wires don't appreciate that.

November 6, 2007: Note from Hein Jansen (NL)
Please, allow me to say "thank you" to Marco Ooms for his great step-by-step explanation. The dealer quoted me 450 euros for the job. Then I bought the parts second-hand, worked on it for four hours, and got things done for just 100 Euros.
Marco: thanks a bunch!